Answers
One question, one straight answer
320 questions, each on its own page, each answered in a few hundred words rather than buried at the bottom of a listicle. Where the honest answer is "change your needle", it says so.
Machines
How the hardware works, what fails, and what the jargon means.
- Are expensive sewing machines worth the money?
- Can I control how fast my sewing machine goes?
- Are mini sewing machines any good?
- Can I use any presser foot on my machine?
- Do I need a separate embroidery machine?
- What is a servo motor and do I need one?
- Do I need an extension table?
- Do I need a machine with hundreds of stitches?
- Does a metal frame really matter in a machine?
- Drop-in or front-loading bobbin: which is better?
- How do I set up a sewing space?
- How do I use a sewing machine safely?
- How does a sewing machine actually make a stitch?
- How long should a sewing machine last?
- Is an automatic needle threader worth having?
- Is a vintage sewing machine worth buying?
- One-step or four-step buttonhole: what changes?
- What is the real difference between a mechanical and a computerised machine?
- Rotary or oscillating hook: what is the difference?
- What age can a child start sewing?
- What are feed dogs and how do they work?
- What do the different needle plates do?
- What does stitches per minute mean?
- What is a coverstitch machine and do I need one?
- What is a free arm on a sewing machine?
- What is a knee lift and is it worth having?
- What is a low shank and a high shank?
- What is a semi-industrial sewing machine?
- What is a walking foot and do I need one?
- What is presser foot lift and why does it matter?
- What is throat space and how much do I need?
- What should I check on a second-hand sewing machine?
- Why are there different bobbin classes?
- Why would anyone buy a straight-stitch machine?
- Why is my sewing machine skipping stitches?
- My sewing machine will not sew — what do I check?
- Why would I lower the feed dogs?
Stitches
Which stitch for which job, and what each setting actually changes.
- Can my machine sew a blanket stitch?
- Does stitch length affect seam strength?
- How and when should I backstitch?
- How do I finish a seam without an overlocker?
- How do I set zigzag width and length?
- How do I sew a blind hem?
- How do I learn to sew a straight line?
- How do I sew decorative stitches neatly?
- What is a basting stitch?
- What is a bar tack?
- What is a catch stitch?
- What is a chain stitch?
- What is a coverstitch?
- What is a hemstitch?
- What is a honeycomb stitch?
- What is a ladder stitch?
- What is a pick stitch?
- What is a satin stitch?
- What is a scallop stitch?
- What is a stretch stitch and when do I use it?
- What is a three-step zigzag for?
- What is a triple straight stitch?
- What is the difference between edgestitching and topstitching?
- What is stitch in the ditch?
- What is the needle position setting for?
- What is the overcasting stitch for?
- What is understitching and why does it matter?
- What stitch length should I use?
- Which hand stitches should I know?
- Which stitch should I use for what?
Tension
Loops underneath, puckered seams, thread breaking — the commonest complaint.
- Can bad tension damage my sewing machine?
- Can I trust automatic tension?
- Do I change tension when I change thread?
- Does a low bobbin change the tension?
- Does a twin needle need different tension?
- Does the number of layers change tension?
- How do I know if my tension is correct?
- How do I reset my tension to default?
- How do I sew a thick layer to a thin one?
- How do I test tension on a scrap?
- How does stitch length affect tension?
- Should I ever adjust the bobbin tension?
- Should I loosen the tension for fine fabric?
- Should I write down my machine settings?
- What does the tension dial actually do?
- What tension should I use for topstitching?
- What tension number should I start from?
- Why does lint in the tension discs matter?
- Why does my bobbin thread show on the top?
- Why does my decorative stitch look wrong?
- Why does my machine make a bird's nest of thread?
- Why does my machine sew fine and then suddenly stop working properly?
- Why does my stitch look different on each side?
- Why does my seam look fine until I press it?
- Why does my thread keep breaking?
- Why does my thread snap only at high speed?
- Why is my seam puckering?
- Why is my zigzag tension different?
- Why is my thread looping underneath?
- Why thread with the presser foot up?
- Why is my stitching loose on knit fabric?
Needles & threads
Which point and which weight for which fabric. Most faults start here.
- Ballpoint or stretch needle — which do I need?
- Can I use any thread in my sewing machine?
- Can I use machine needles in an overlocker?
- Can I use normal thread in the bobbin?
- Cotton or polyester thread?
- Horizontal or vertical spool pin?
- How do I dispose of old needles safely?
- How do I sew with metallic thread?
- How much thread do I need for a project?
- How often should I change my sewing machine needle?
- How should I store thread?
- Is cheap thread worth it?
- What does 130/705 H mean on a needle?
- What does thread weight mean?
- What is a jeans needle for?
- What is a leather needle for?
- What is a microtex needle for?
- What is a quilting needle for?
- What is a self-threading needle?
- What is a topstitch needle for?
- What is a twin needle for?
- What is a wing needle for?
- What is elastic thread for?
- What is invisible thread for?
- What is topstitch thread and when do I need it?
- What is water-soluble thread for?
- What needle size do I need for my fabric?
- Which hand sewing needle do I need?
- Why does my sewing machine needle keep breaking?
- Why does my thread shred and fray as I sew?
Fabrics
Jersey, denim, leather, silk, chiffon — what each one demands.
- Do I need to prewash fabric before sewing?
- How do I attach ribbing to a neckline?
- How do I reuse fabric from old clothes?
- How do I sew blackout lining?
- How do I sew canvas and heavy bag fabric?
- How do I sew chambray?
- How do I sew coated cotton?
- How do I sew corduroy?
- How do I sew cotton lawn and batiste?
- How do I sew chiffon?
- How do I sew curtain fabric?
- How do I sew cotton sateen?
- How do I sew crepe?
- How do I sew French terry?
- How do I sew faux fur?
- How do I sew jacquard?
- How do I sew lace?
- How do I sew jersey without it going wavy?
- How do I sew fleece?
- Can I sew leather on a domestic sewing machine?
- How do I sew linen?
- How do I sew madras?
- How do I sew slippery lining fabric?
- How do I sew neoprene?
- How do I sew mesh?
- How do I sew over thick denim seams?
- How do I sew minky?
- How do I sew ribbed knit?
- How do I sew poplin?
- How do I sew ripstop nylon?
- How do I sew sequinned fabric?
- How do I sew silk without ruining it?
- How do I sew stretch denim?
- How do I sew softshell?
- How do I sew tulle?
- How do I sew velvet without marking it?
- How do I sew tweed?
- How do I sew waterproof fabric?
- How do I sew viscose?
- How do I sew ticking?
- How do I sew wool?
- How do I stop slippery fabric moving while I sew?
- What can I do with fabric scraps?
- What is fabric grain and why does it matter?
Embroidery
Stabilisers, hooping, file formats and why designs pucker.
- Can I embroider a finished garment?
- Can I embroider on an ordinary sewing machine?
- Can I stitch a design bigger than my hoop?
- Can I turn a photo or logo into a design file?
- How do I choose a machine embroidery design?
- How do I embroider names and lettering?
- How do I embroider on a cap?
- How do I embroider on a T-shirt?
- How do I embroider on towels?
- How do I hoop fabric properly for embroidery?
- How do I remove machine embroidery stitches?
- How do I position an embroidery design accurately?
- How do I stitch an appliqué embroidery design?
- How do I wash embroidered clothes?
- What do I do about jump stitches?
- What file format does my embroidery machine need?
- What is embroidery digitising?
- What needle do I need for machine embroidery?
- Which stabiliser do I need for machine embroidery?
- What thread should I use for machine embroidery?
- Why do my embroidery outlines not line up?
- Why does my embroidery thread keep breaking?
- Why does my machine embroidery pucker?
Overlocking
Threading, differential feed and rolled hems without swearing.
- Can I overlock without cutting the fabric?
- Can I use an overlocker on woven fabric?
- Do I need a five-thread overlocker?
- Do I need special thread for an overlocker?
- How do I change an overlocker needle?
- How do I clean and oil an overlocker?
- How do I do a rolled hem on an overlocker?
- How do I overlock a curve or a corner?
- How do I overlock fine or sheer fabric?
- How do I overlock thick or bulky fabric?
- How do I replace an overlocker blade?
- How do I secure the end of an overlocked seam?
- How do I set overlocker tension?
- How do I thread an overlocker without losing my mind?
- How do I unpick an overlocked seam?
- Overlocker or coverstitch machine first?
- What are the different overlock stitches for?
- What is differential feed on an overlocker?
- What is flatlocking on an overlocker?
- When should I overlock — before or after?
- Why does my overlocker chew the fabric edge?
- Why does my overlocked seam pull apart?
- Why is my overlocker chewing instead of cutting?
- Why is my overlocker skipping stitches?
Maintenance
Lint, oil, timing — the routines that decide whether a machine reaches year twenty.
- Can I replace my sewing machine’s belt?
- How do I adjust presser foot pressure?
- How do I change a sewing machine needle?
- How do I change my machine’s light bulb?
- How do I find a broken needle tip?
- How do I free a jammed bobbin case?
- How do I keep my scissors sharp?
- How do I restart a long-stored machine?
- How do I tell if my needle is bent?
- Why does my bobbin wind unevenly?
- How often should my machine be serviced?
- How should I store my sewing machine?
- How often should I clean my sewing machine?
- Is my old sewing machine worth repairing?
- Do scratches on the needle plate matter?
- Should I oil my sewing machine?
- Should I use compressed air on my machine?
- What is sewing machine timing and can I fix it?
- My sewing machine is making a knocking noise — what is it?
- What tools do I need for machine upkeep?
- Why does my machine jam at the start of every seam?
- Why does my sewing machine vibrate?
- Why does my sewing machine smell hot?
- Why is my foot pedal sticking or cutting out?
- Why has my stitch length stopped changing?
- Why is my handwheel stiff or hard to turn?
- Why is my sewing machine running slowly?
- Why won’t my machine sew in reverse?
- Why won’t my bobbin winder work?
- Why won’t my sewing machine turn on?
Techniques
Hems, zips, buttonholes and the operations people avoid.
- How do I attach a waistband neatly?
- How do I apply fusible interfacing?
- How do I attach snap fasteners?
- How do I gather fabric evenly?
- How do I grade a seam allowance?
- How do I hem a curved edge?
- How do I hem jeans and keep the original hem?
- How do I line a garment?
- How do I mend a tear in a garment?
- How do I patch worn jeans?
- How do I replace a broken zip?
- How do I set in a sleeve without puckers?
- How do I sew a cuff?
- How do I sew a collar that sits properly?
- How do I sew a dart that lies flat?
- How do I sew a flat-felled seam?
- How do I sew a French seam?
- How do I sew a drawstring casing?
- How do I sew a mitred corner?
- How do I sew a neat corner?
- How do I sew a neat patch pocket?
- How do I sew a narrow hem?
- How do I sew a neckline facing?
- How do I sew a shirt yoke?
- How do I sew a sleeve placket?
- How do I sew a smooth curve?
- How do I sew a welt pocket?
- How do I sew a zip without it going wrong?
- How do I sew an in-seam pocket?
- How do I sew bias binding neatly?
- How do I sew belt loops?
- How do I sew elastic into a waistband?
- How do I sew on a button?
- How do I shorten a pair of trousers?
- How do I take in a side seam?
- How do I unpick a seam?
- How should I press as I sew?
- What is staystitching?
- What is visible mending?
- What order should I sew a garment in?
- What should I sew first?
- When do I clip or notch a seam allowance?
- Why is my buttonhole fraying or tearing?
Patterns
Sizing, adjusting and reading a pattern without guessing.
- How do I add seam allowance to a pattern?
- How do I add growth room to children's clothes?
- How do I adjust a sleeve for a fuller arm?
- How do I adjust a pattern for narrow shoulders?
- How do I adjust the crotch curve on trousers?
- How do I blend between two pattern sizes?
- How do I choose a pattern size for a child?
- How do I choose the right pattern size?
- How do I cut out fabric accurately?
- What is a full bust adjustment and do I need one?
- How do I do a sway back adjustment?
- How do I fix a gaping neckline?
- How do I measure myself for a sewing pattern?
- How do I lengthen or shorten a pattern?
- How do I lay out pattern pieces on fabric?
- How do I move a dart on a pattern?
- How do I print and assemble a PDF pattern?
- How do I read a sewing pattern?
- How do I trace a sewing pattern?
- How do I walk the seams of a pattern?
- How much fabric do I need for a pattern?
- How should I store my sewing patterns?
- Should I make a toile first?
- What do the markings on a sewing pattern mean?
- What does cut on the fold mean?
- What is a block or sloper?
- What is ease in a sewing pattern?
- What seam allowance does my pattern use?