A wing needle has flat metal flanges either side of the blade, which spread the threads of a woven fabric into a visible hole. It makes decorative holes on purpose, which is why it looks alarming and why it only works on certain fabrics.
What it is for. Heirloom sewing and hemstitching — the row of open eyelets seen on christening gowns, table linen and fine blouses. The needle opens the hole, and a stitch pattern that returns to the same point repeatedly holds it open.
The fabric has to cooperate. Crisp natural wovens: linen, batiste, handkerchief cotton, organdie. The threads must move aside and stay aside. On a dense synthetic or a knit the hole simply closes, and on a very loose weave the fabric distorts.
Starch helps considerably. Heavily starched and pressed fabric holds the holes open far better than soft fabric.
Which stitches. Any stitch that puts several stitches into the same hole — many machines have a specific hemstitch or entredeux stitch. A simple zigzag will not do it.
Sizes. 100/16 and 120/19, the larger giving a larger hole.
Sew slowly. The needle is wide, and it needs the fabric held steady on a stabiliser.
And check the needle plate. A straight stitch plate has no room for a wing needle and the needle will break.
Questions people actually ask
Can I hemstitch on any machine?
You need a stitch that repeats into the same hole. Many machines have one; check the stitch chart for hemstitch, entredeux or Venetian stitch.
Is there a twin wing needle?
Yes — one wing blade and one ordinary, used together for a decorative line with holes down one side. It needs a wide needle plate opening.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11