How do I sew silk without ruining it?

Silk is not difficult so much as unforgiving: every mistake is permanent, because pinholes and iron marks do not recover.

Cut single layer, with weights. Folding shifts the layers and you get two different shapes. Pins leave holes — use weights, and pin only within the seam allowance if you must.

Use a very fine sharp needle — 60/8 or 70/10 microtex. A heavier or blunter needle pushes the fabric into the needle hole and leaves visible marks.

Sew over tissue paper. Lay a strip underneath, sew through both, tear away. It gives the feed dogs something to grip and stops the machine eating the fabric.

Use a straight-stitch needle plate if you have one — the small round hole supports the fabric exactly where support is needed.

Shorten the stitch to about 2 mm and reduce top tension slightly.

Test the iron on a scrap. Silk water-spots and scorches, and both are permanent. Use a dry iron on low, or steam from a distance without contact.

Finish seams properly. French seams are the traditional answer on sheer silk and they enclose the raw edges completely, which matters because silk frays badly.

And pre-shrink it if the garment will ever be washed — but test washing on a scrap first, because many silks are dry-clean only for good reason.