Ballpoint for ordinary knits; stretch for knits containing elastane. They are not the same needle, and swapping one for the other is a common cause of skipped stitches.
What a ballpoint does. The tip is rounded, so it pushes between the loops of a knit rather than piercing them. A universal needle cuts loops, which makes a ladder that runs later. Use a ballpoint on jersey, interlock, fleece, sweatshirting and most plain knits.
What a stretch needle adds. A slightly different point, and more importantly a modified scarf — the shaped hollow above the eye — which lets the hook pass closer to the thread loop. Highly elastic fabric flexes away from the needle as it enters, and the loop can be missed entirely. The stretch needle exists to solve that specific skipped stitch problem.
Which to use. If a ballpoint sews your fabric cleanly, keep using it. If you get skipped stitches on swimwear fabric, elastane jersey or anything with real recovery, fit a stretch needle.
Sizes. 70/10 to 90/14 covers most knits. Fine jersey takes 70/10; sweatshirting and fleece 90/14.
The honest answer is that you probably need both, and they cost very little. A mixed pack is reasonable for anyone sewing knits regularly.
And neither fixes a wavy seam. That is presser foot pressure and stitch choice, not the needle.
Questions people actually ask
Is a jersey needle the same as a ballpoint?
Yes, the labels are used interchangeably by most manufacturers. Stretch needles are labelled separately and are a different thing.
I still skip stitches with a stretch needle.
Try a fresh one, then check the needle is pushed fully up into the clamp. A needle sitting even slightly low misses the hook.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11