Jacquard has its pattern woven into the structure rather than printed on, which changes how you cut it and how the back behaves.
Match the design across seams. A woven motif is the point of the fabric, and a mismatch at a centre front or a side seam is obvious. Cut single layer, position each piece deliberately, and buy extra for the repeat.
Check for a nap. Many jacquards catch light differently in each direction because of how the floats lie. Look at a length hung both ways in daylight before deciding, then cut every piece the same way.
Look at the wrong side. Jacquard often has long floating threads on the back. They snag on jewellery and fingernails, and they can be caught by a needle. Lining is usually the right answer on a garment; on furnishings the back is hidden anyway.
Use a universal or microtex 80/12 or 90/14 depending on weight, with a stitch length around 2.5 to 3 mm.
Finish edges immediately. The floats mean it frays enthusiastically once cut, and the raw edge can unravel further than on a plain weave.
Press from the back with a cloth. Pressing a raised woven pattern from the face flattens it, and on synthetic jacquard it glazes.
Interfacing choices matter. A fusible can show through a textured surface as a flat patch. Test on a scrap, and consider a sew-in instead.
Questions people actually ask
Is jacquard the same as brocade?
Brocade is a jacquard, usually with metallic or contrasting supplementary threads. The sewing considerations are the same, and brocade frays more.
Should I line a jacquard garment?
Usually yes, both for comfort against the floats on the back and to keep the fabric from snagging in wear.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11