Lining fabric — acetate, viscose, polyester satin — slides because it is smooth on both faces and has no body.
Cut it single layer. Folding to cut two pieces at once shifts the layers and produces two different shapes. Use pattern weights rather than pins, on a surface that grips.
Fine, very sharp needle. A 60/8 or 70/10 microtex. A heavier needle pushes the fabric down into the needle hole instead of piercing it, which is what makes the machine appear to eat it.
Shorten the stitch to around 2 mm for better control.
Sew over tissue paper. Lay a strip under the seam, sew through both, tear away afterwards. It gives the feed dogs something to grip and it is the cheapest fix there is.
Use a straight-stitch needle plate if you have one. The small round hole supports the fabric right where it needs support.
Finish the edges as you go — lining frays enthusiastically. A narrow zigzag or a French seam.
And be careful pressing. Most linings are synthetic and will melt or shine at cotton temperatures. Test on a scrap, use a pressing cloth, and keep the iron moving.
Questions people actually ask
Should I use spray starch?
It helps a great deal on viscose and acetate — it temporarily stiffens the fabric so it behaves more like a stable woven, and it washes out.
Why does my lining pull the garment?
Usually it was cut without enough ease. A lining should be very slightly larger than the shell, with a pleat at the centre back, so it does not restrict the outer fabric.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11