How do I sew madras?

Madras is a light, loosely woven checked cotton, and the check dictates the cutting while the loose weave dictates the seams.

Match the check. A visible pattern at a centre front, a pocket or a side seam is the first thing anyone sees. Cut single layer, position each piece deliberately against the repeat, and buy extra length for it — one full repeat per major piece is the usual allowance.

Cut on grain and check the print is on grain. On a woven check the pattern is the grain, so if the fabric has been pulled off square in finishing, straighten it by pulling on the bias before cutting rather than following the cut edge.

Prewash it, separately. Traditional madras is dyed with colours that bleed, and some is sold specifically for that faded effect. Wash it alone the first time and expect the colours to soften.

Use a universal 80/12 and a stitch length around 2.5 mm.

Finish or enclose every edge. The weave is loose and it frays readily. French seams suit the weight and are the tidiest answer on a light shirting; flat-felled seams are stronger.

Interface where structure is needed. It is a soft, light fabric and collars and cuffs will collapse without it.

Press with heat and steam. It creases easily and presses crisply, which is much of its character.