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What is a scallop stitch?

A curved decorative stitch used for shaped edges on collars, cuffs and table linen. Sew it, trim close, and it becomes the edge.

A scallop stitch sews a repeating curve, either as a decorative line on the surface of the fabric or as a shaped, finished edge.

The two uses are different.

As decoration, the stitch is sewn on flat fabric as a border — a wavy line, sometimes with satin-stitched curves.

As an edge finish, the stitch is sewn near the folded or raw edge in dense satin stitch, and the fabric is then trimmed away close to the outside of the curves. What remains is a scalloped edge with the raw edge locked inside the stitching. This is the traditional finish on table linen, blouse collars and children’s clothing.

How to do the edge version properly.

Interface or stabilise — a firm tear-away underneath is not optional. Dense curved stitching pulls hard.

Sew on the right side so you can see where the curves fall.

Plan the repeat. Measure the edge and check the scallops divide into it evenly, so you do not end with half a curve at a corner. Adjusting the stitch width slightly is easier than adjusting the fabric.

Trim with small sharp scissors, close but not into the stitching. Appliqué scissors help.

Fabric. Crisp and stable: cotton lawn, poplin, linen. On anything soft or stretchy the curves distort and the effect is lost.

Test the full repeat on a scrap first, including the trimming. That is where you find out whether the stitch density is enough to survive being cut close.

Questions people actually ask

Can I scallop a curved edge?

A gentle curve, yes, with careful easing. On a tight curve the scallops distort — do it on straight or nearly straight edges.

My trimmed edge frays.

The stitching was not dense enough, or you trimmed too close. Increase the density, and leave a hair of fabric outside the stitches.

Last reviewed 2026-08-11