Every mark on a pattern piece has a job. The ones that matter most are these.
Grainline — a long double-headed arrow. Lay it parallel to the selvedge. Measure from the arrow to the selvedge at both ends and make them equal. Getting this wrong makes the finished garment twist and cannot be corrected later.
Notches — triangles or slits on the seam line. They match one piece to another. A single notch conventionally marks the front, a double notch the back, which is how you avoid setting a sleeve in backwards.
Circles or dots — points that must align exactly: the shoulder point of a sleeve cap, the end of a dart, the start of a zip opening, the corner of a pocket.
Dart legs — two lines meeting at a point, with the fabric between them folded out.
Fold line — a bracket or a line marked “place on fold”. That edge sits on the folded fabric and is not cut.
Buttonhole and button placement marks — transfer these before you unpin the pattern, because measuring them afterwards is far harder.
Lengthen/shorten lines — where to adjust length.
Transfer the marks before removing the pattern. Tailor’s tacks, chalk, or clips into the seam allowance for notches. Notches cut outward are safer than snipped inward, which can cut into the seam.
Questions people actually ask
Should I cut notches outwards or snip inwards?
Outwards is safer — a snip inwards can weaken or cut past the seam line. Many people simply mark them with chalk instead.
I forgot to transfer a mark.
Lay the pattern piece back over the cut fabric, matching the edges, and mark through. This is another reason to trace rather than cut the pattern.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11