A curved hem has more fabric in the raw edge than in the line it is folded up to, and that surplus has to go somewhere. Everything about hemming a curve is managing that surplus.
Keep the hem narrow. The deeper the hem, the greater the difference between the two circumferences. On a flared skirt, 10 to 15 mm is manageable; 50 mm is not. Narrow hems on curves are not a shortcut, they are the correct answer.
Ease the fullness in. Sew a line of long machine stitches just inside the raw edge, 3 to 5 mm in. Fold the hem up and gently draw that thread until the surplus is distributed evenly. Do not gather it — you want it eased, so the fullness disappears rather than forming pleats.
Press with steam. Wool and most natural fibres will shrink the surplus away under steam over a curved surface such as a sleeve board or a ham. Synthetics will not, which is why they need a narrower hem.
Then finish the edge and stitch. Overlocking or a turned edge, then either machine stitching or a hand slip stitch.
Alternatives worth knowing. A bias facing gives a clean curved hem with almost no bulk — it is the neatest answer on a strongly flared hem. Bias binding does the same job as a visible finish.
Hang the garment for a day before hemming if it has any bias in it. A bias-cut hem drops, and hemming before it settles guarantees an uneven edge.
Questions people actually ask
Why is my curved hem rippling?
The surplus was not eased in, or the hem is too deep for the curve. Run an easing row and reduce the hem depth.
What about a shirt tail?
Shirt tails use a very narrow double-turned hem, 5 to 6 mm, precisely because the curve is tight. A rolled hem foot makes it quick.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11