The overcasting stitch neatens a raw edge by stitching along it and wrapping the very edge with thread. It is the sewing machine’s answer to an overlocker, and it is a good deal better than most people expect.
It is designed to work with an overcast foot, which has a small metal pin or brush at the right-hand side. The thread forms over that pin rather than over the fabric edge, so the edge stays flat instead of rolling into a rope. Without that foot the stitch still works, but the edge curls.
How to sew it. Line the raw edge up against the guide on the foot and let the guide steer. Do not try to control the position by eye — the whole point is that the fabric edge runs against a physical stop.
On the dial it appears as a slanted or blanket-like stitch, often with several variants for light, medium and heavy fabric. Pick the one your manual matches to the fabric weight.
Versus a plain zigzag. A zigzag is quicker and available on every machine, but it draws the edge in. Overcasting with the correct foot gives a flatter, more durable finish that survives washing better.
Where it is not the answer. Fabric that frays severely, and unlined garments where the seam allowances will be handled. There a French seam or bias binding is a better use of the time.
Trim the edge straight first. The stitch follows whatever edge you give it, including a wobbly one.
Questions people actually ask
Do I need the special foot?
It makes a substantial difference. The pin holds the thread out beyond the fabric, which is exactly what stops the edge rolling.
Is it as good as overlocking?
Close, on medium-weight wovens, and slower. An overlocker also trims as it sews, which is the part a sewing machine cannot copy.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11