Basting is temporary stitching, sewn to hold something in place while you check it or sew it properly, and removed afterwards.
On the machine. Set the longest straight stitch available, usually 4 to 5 mm, and loosen the top tension a little. The loose, long stitch pulls out in one length rather than fighting you. Do not backstitch — the whole point is that it comes out.
By hand. A running stitch, roughly 5 to 10 mm long, in a contrasting thread so you can find it later.
When it earns its place.
Fitting. Baste the side seams and try the garment on before committing. This is faster than unpicking a proper seam and it is what stops a garment being made twice.
Zips and awkward joins, where pins distort the fabric and the two layers must not shift.
Slippery fabric, where basting does the job pins cannot.
Matching stripes or checks, which will slide under the foot however carefully they were pinned.
Use a contrasting colour so every stitch is visible when you come to remove them. Matching thread turns removal into a search.
Where not to use it. On fabric that marks — silk, fine wool, coated cotton — basting leaves holes. Use clips or a washable glue stick instead.
And remove it after the permanent seam is sewn, not before. Basting caught under a proper seam is unpleasant to dig out.
Questions people actually ask
Can I leave basting in?
Only inside a seam allowance where it will never show. Anywhere visible it distorts the fabric and reads as a mistake.
Is water-soluble thread worth it?
For quilting and for places you cannot reach afterwards, yes. For ordinary fitting, contrasting cotton thread is cheaper and pulls out easily.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11