It depends on how the thread is wound onto the spool, not on the machine. Getting it wrong makes the thread twist as it feeds, and twisted thread snags, loops and snaps.
Cross wound. The thread crosses back and forth in a criss cross pattern down the spool. Cones and most large spools are wound like this. Cross wound thread should come off the end of the spool, which means a horizontal pin, or a vertical thread stand set behind the machine.
Parallel wound, or stacked. The thread lies in neat parallel layers. This should unwind by the spool turning, which means a vertical pin.
Why it matters. Pulling thread off the end of a parallel wound spool puts a twist into it on every wrap. Over a long seam the twist accumulates, and the thread starts to kink, snag at the guides and break.
Most machines have both. A horizontal pin on the top, and either a second vertical pin or a hole for an accessory one. Look for it before assuming you have only one.
The spool cap matters too. On a horizontal pin, use a cap slightly larger than the spool end, so the thread cannot catch under the rim. That single detail solves a great many mysterious thread breaks.
Thread nets help with slippery or old thread that spills off the spool.
And on a large cone, use a separate stand. Cones are not made to sit on a domestic pin.
Questions people actually ask
How do I tell which winding I have?
Look at the side of the spool. Criss cross diagonal lines mean cross wound; neat horizontal bands mean parallel wound.
My thread keeps catching on the notch in the spool.
That is exactly what a correctly sized spool cap prevents. Turn the spool so the notch faces away from the feed as well.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11