How do I sew crepe?

Crepe gets its texture from highly twisted yarns, and those twists are why it moves, shrinks and frays.

Prewash if the fibre allows. The twist relaxes with water and crepe can shrink appreciably. On silk or wool crepe, test on a scrap first — many are dry-clean only for good reason.

Cut single layer, with weights and a rotary cutter. The crinkled surface stops the layers lying together and a folded cut comes out asymmetric.

Stay-stitch necklines and armholes immediately. Crepe stretches out of shape from handling alone.

Use a 70/10 microtex and fine polyester thread. Shorten the stitch to about 2 mm and reduce top tension a little.

Sew over tissue paper on lightweight crepe, tearing it away afterwards. It gives the feed dogs something firm to grip.

Finish edges as soon as pieces are cut. Crepe frays quickly. French seams are ideal on lighter weights; overlock heavier crepe.

Press carefully and test first. Too much heat flattens the texture permanently, and on polyester crepe the surface can glaze. Use a cloth, a moderate setting, and press rather than sliding the iron.

Hang before hemming. Crepe drapes and drops, and a bias or flared hem needs a day to settle.

Choose the right crepe for the pattern. Crepe de chine is fine and fluid, wool crepe has body, and polyester crepe sits between them. A pattern designed for one will not behave in another.