Faux fur is sewn from the wrong side and judged by whether the seam disappears into the pile.
Cut single layer, from the back, with the nap running one way — normally downwards. Use a craft knife or the very tip of scissors and cut through the backing only, not the pile. Cutting straight through with shears shears the fur along the line and leaves a bald seam.
Comb or push the pile away from the seam line before sewing, and tuck it towards the body of the piece. Baste if needed. Pile caught in the stitching is what makes a home-made fur seam visible.
Use a universal 90/14 or 100/16 depending on the backing, and a stitch length around 3 to 3.5 mm.
Fit a walking foot. The pile makes the layers creep badly.
Shave the seam allowance on thick pile: trim the fur off the allowance close to the backing before sewing, so the seam is not a bolster.
Never press it. The pile melts and mats. Finger-press, or catch the allowances down with hand stitches.
After sewing, tease the pile out of the seam from the right side with a pin or a comb. The seam then vanishes.
Expect an enormous mess. Cut over a bin, and clean the machine thoroughly afterwards — fur fibres pack the bobbin race faster than anything else.
Questions people actually ask
Which way should the nap run?
Downwards, so it strokes smooth from top to bottom. Check with your hand and mark the back of every piece before cutting.
How do I hem faux fur?
Turn once and catch it by hand, or bind the edge. A double-turned machine hem is far too bulky and shows as a hard line.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11