How do I embroider on a T-shirt?

A T-shirt is knit fabric, so the whole job is about stopping it stretching — a cut-away stabiliser and a ballpoint needle do most of that work.

Use a cut-away stabiliser, not tear-away. Knit fabric stretches in wear and washing, and only a cut-away continues to support the stitching for the life of the garment. Tear-away holds for the stitching and then leaves the design to distort. Fusible cut-away is easier still on very light jersey.

Fit a ballpoint embroidery needle, usually 75/11. A sharp point cuts the knit loops and the cuts open into holes after a few washes.

Add a topping — a water-soluble film laid on the surface — so the stitches sit on the fabric instead of sinking into the knit texture. Without it, outlines and small lettering disappear into the surface.

Hoop the stabiliser and the fabric together, taut but not stretched. Stretching the shirt in the hoop is the classic error: the fabric relaxes afterwards and the design puckers permanently. Float the garment on hooped stabiliser if the area is awkward.

Choose a light design. Dense fill on a lightweight knit is the hardest combination there is. Outline styles, redwork and appliqué designs all work far better.

Slow the machine down, and support the weight of the shirt so it does not drag on the hoop.

Trim the cut-away close but not tight afterwards, leaving a margin around the stitching, and cover the back with a soft fusible backing if it will sit against skin.