Take thread, a fresh needle and a scrap of doubled fabric with you, and sew on it. A machine you have not sewn on is a machine you know nothing about.
Sew a straight seam and look at the stitch from both sides. It should be identical on each face. Then sew a zigzag, and then a buttonhole — buttonhole mechanisms are among the commonest failures on used machines and the hardest faults to discover after money has changed hands.
Turn the handwheel by hand through a full stitch cycle. It should be smooth throughout, with no catching, grinding or tight spot.
Work the presser foot lever to full height and check it holds there. Drop the feed dogs and raise them again.
Listen. A knock, a rattle or heavy vibration on ordinary fabric is worth walking away from unless you can price a repair first.
Open the bobbin area. Rust in the race, or old oil gone sticky and brown, means a machine that has sat unused and needs a service before it is honest to call it working.
Check the mains lead and the pedal for perished or cracked insulation. This is a safety matter, not a cosmetic one.
Ask what comes with it. Manual, pedal, power lead, bobbin case, bobbins, feet. A missing bobbin case on an obscure or old model can be difficult and expensive to source.
Check parts availability for that model before buying, not after.
And consider the alternative. A serviced machine from a dealer costs more but has been tested and usually carries a warranty. A cheap private-sale machine plus a service can easily come to more.
Questions people actually ask
The seller says it works but has no thread.
Then it turns over, which is not the same thing. Bring your own thread and needle, or treat the price as if the machine needs a service.
Is it worth buying a machine that needs a service?
If it is metal-framed and a known model, often yes — get a quote first. If it is a light plastic-bodied machine, the service usually costs more than the machine is worth.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11