A hemstitch produces a line of small open holes along a fold or a seam, and on a sewing machine it depends entirely on the needle rather than the stitch.
The wing needle is the whole trick. It has flat metal wings on each side of the shaft. As it passes through the fabric it pushes the threads apart rather than cutting them, opening a hole. The stitch then sews repeatedly into the same point, and the thread holds the hole open permanently.
What you need.
A wing needle, commonly 100/16 or 120/19.
Crisp, loosely woven natural fabric — linen, cotton batiste, handkerchief lawn, organdie. On a dense synthetic the fibres spring back and no hole forms. This is not a technique that works on any fabric.
A stitch that returns to the same spot — machines usually label these as heirloom, entredeux, Venetian or daisy stitches. A plain zigzag will not do it.
Fine thread, 50 to 60 weight cotton, so the thread does not fill the hole it just opened.
A stabiliser, or starch the fabric heavily first. Starch is the traditional answer and it works well.
Where it is used. Heirloom sewing, christening gowns, table linen, blouse fronts, and joining lace to fabric.
Sew slowly. The wing needle needs time to spread the threads, and speed simply drags them.
Test first, because whether a particular fabric will hold a hole is not something you can judge by looking at it.
Questions people actually ask
Does a wing needle damage my machine?
No, but it is wide. Use a zigzag needle plate, and turn the handwheel by hand for the first stitches to check clearance.
My holes close up again.
The fabric is too dense or too springy. Switch to a loosely woven natural fibre and starch it firmly before sewing.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11