How do I sew viscose?

Viscose drapes beautifully and moves constantly, and it shrinks more on the first wash than most people expect.

Prewash it, without exception. Viscose can shrink several per cent, and it is weaker when wet, so wash gently and dry flat. A garment cut from unwashed viscose changes size the first time it is laundered.

Cut single layer, with weights. It slides against itself and against the table, so a folded layout gives two different shapes. A rotary cutter and a large mat are much better than shears here.

Use a 70/10 or 80/12 microtex and fine polyester thread. A blunt point pushes the fabric into the needle hole.

Shorten the stitch to about 2 to 2.5 mm and reduce top tension slightly. Sew over tissue paper at the start of a seam if the machine tries to swallow the edge.

Fit a straight-stitch plate if you have one, and a walking foot for long seams.

Finish edges promptly. Viscose frays, and rayon challis frays fast. French seams suit lighter weights.

Hang it before hemming, for at least a day. Viscose grows under its own weight, particularly on a bias or a circle hem, and levelling before it has dropped guarantees an uneven hem.

Press on a medium setting with steam. It takes pressing well, better than most synthetics, which is one of the pleasures of it.