Turn under 5 mm and press. Turn again to your hem depth, using a seam gauge so every point around the garment matches, and press again. Pin from the fold side. Sew from the right side if you want a visible topstitch, from the wrong side if you want to follow the fold edge exactly. The gauge is what makes this repeatable — measuring with a tape at each pin introduces a drift you will see at the front hem.
Questions people actually ask
How deep should a hem be?
On a straight skirt or trouser, 30 to 40 mm gives weight and hangs well. On a curve, go narrower — 10 to 15 mm — because a deep hem on a curve has more fabric on the outer edge than the inner and will not lie flat.
Why does my hem ripple?
Usually a deep hem on a curved edge, or stretching the fabric as you feed it. Ease the fabric rather than pulling it, and reduce the hem depth on anything shaped.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11